Amiram Hayardeny's My China Experience

Trip To India - Conclusions

I never thought that time travel was possible.  But it is clear to me now.  Time travel is possible, and at the risk of sounding a little freaky, I'm willing to say, I have traveled back in time, and then back to the present.

It seems to me that we have landed in Delhi at least a millennium ago.  Yet, the calendar suggests that it's been only two weeks.  Two weeks.

Delhi, at least half of it, is a modern city.  Indeed its streets are loaded with vehicles of all kinds, beasts and humans.  It's not completely uncommon to see an elephant walking heavily on the side of the road. If Delhi represents 2008, it only takes a few hundred miles train ride to go back in time a couple of  thousands years ago.

India is about a third of the size of the US.  It has roughly more than three times the size of population.  Roughly eighty percent of the Indian are Hindu, and about 60% are farmers.  Many are illiterate, and many are Harvard style educated.  English is spoken all around by some.  Food is amazing, spicy, rich.  99% of the people are warm, welcoming, and hospitable.  1% are not.  By all means, not a bad ratio.

Why am I talking about time travel?  Because many of the people are connected to the land, to the river, to the Gods and Goddesses of ancient times, to ways of cultivating the land practiced thousands of years ago.  I love vehicles in general, and cars in particular.  I have seen vehicles here that I can hardly classify as motor vehicles, yet they appear to be everywhere.  I have seen carts pulled by water buffalos, bulls, horses, camels, donkeys and elephants.  I have seen hay stacks the size of small building, sugarcane stacks the size of big trucks.  

I have seen trains which were classified “old” and “crummy” in Israel half a century ago.

I have seen people with big hearts and even bigger smiles.

I visited palaces and forts, and I could easily stand there and imagine the lifestyle, the horses, the gold and the precious stones, the servants and the eunuchs guarding the harems.  Visiting the Taj Mahal, I could imagine workers sitting around producing the most spectacular artwork in marble and stones.

Then you see and feel the British all around you.  In the language, in the structures, in the railways, the newspapers, the TV shows, and of course, the Ambassador Classic.

And Gandhi.  In fact the Gandhis – Mahatma, Indira and Rajeev.

I've seen Hindus, and Muslims, and Sikhs, and Christian.  All living peacefully, at least seemingly.

We traveled in a way not too many people travel in India.  With two small children.  Indeed, we met many travelers along the way.  The “luxurious” type, who come storming in with the tour bus, eat dinner at the hotel and zoom out in the early morning to make a few other attractions.  We saw the “trekkers”, the obviously western people who try hard, but unsuccessfully, to blend in.  They would usually wear the most elaborate turbans, the most unattended hair and clothing, as many pierced body parts and tattoos as they can carry, bare feet, of course, the go from one ashram to another in search of the absolute truth, the divine, Nirvana.  We haven't met anyone like us.  And there's probably a good reason.  

Traveling in India, one must be very careful.  Hygienic facilities and procedures are not exactly what you're used to.  Water sources and food could be contaminated.  Some sites are not very pleasant to the eye: extreme poverty, dirt, living conditions, human suffering – it's not easy to watch.

Should this be a deterrent?  I'd say no.  It is possible to do family traveling in India as long as you plan your trip carefully, that you take into account a few, but very important tips, and that you have a good local travel operator to look after you.  I would not recommend to anyone, with family that is, to travel here independently.  I wouldn't recommend driving here.

For us, the following worked perfectly.

Tips
1. No remote places, no serious walks, no escapism.
2. Major credit card(s).  ATM machines in relatively remote places will be happy to spit out Rupees.  The limits are different in different places.
3. GPRS cellular phone.  Not optional.  Mandatory.
4. Germ-X or similar cleanser to clean hands before a meal if no other options are available.
5. Crackers, pretzels, cookies, dried fruit (fried dried bananas, almonds, peanuts).  We came in loaded, and were very happy we did.
6. Lays potato chips are available everywhere.  If nothing else is available, it's not such a bad substitute for dinner.
7. Bottled water only.  Room temperature only.  Recognized brands only.  No exceptions. Including brushing teeth.
8. DVDs, coloring books, iPods, whatever can entertain children on long drives by car or train.
9. High end restaurants (doesn't necessarily mean expensive), that are recognized for good quality food and cleanliness.  Don't experiment.  It may be costly.
10. The following has been tried successfully time and again.  Passports and wallet close to the body.  A reasonably empty pouch, and a camera case.  Decoys.
11. Research the weather patterns, bring appropriate clothes, and really comfortable walking shoes.
12. People will certainly try to sell you stuff at ten times their worth.  It's understandable given the poverty seen here.  We found out, too late, that everything can be found in the Delhi markets at reasonable, yet negotiable prices.  If you still want to purchase local things, bargain.
13. Beggars are part of the scenery.  If your nature, like mine, is to give, do it carefully and discreetly.  If you don't, you risk being chased by dozens.  Not a pretty site.

For a travel agent we picked Ms. Hanna Lahat from Israel.  She put together a wonderful trip for us.  She tailored  a trip for us, taking into account our style, our kids, our preferences.  She was very receptive to changes to the last minute, and was, to my great surprise, following up on the trip on a daily basis.  If you want a trip tailored for your special needs, Hanna, from Noga Carmel is a great choice.  We certainly intend to use her in the future when we plan another trip.

For more information: http://www.nogacarmel.com/ or email hannal@netvision.net.il.

As for the local operators.  Pettitts executed flawlessly.  From the minute we landed here, they were on top of everything.  Kishan, our driver and guide, is a seasoned tour guide and driver.  He's smart, educated, and witty.   He knows the main roads, but also the secondary and the tertiary roads.  He know the lay of the land, and the lay of the people.  He was always there watching us from afar, like a concerned mother.  On the rare occasion when he thought that a place would be unsafe, he stated so without hesitation, and he also got us out of some hairy situations.

Kishan is knowledgeable, in history, demography, geography of this great country.  Traveling with him was a great experience.  It started as a working relationship, and ended with friendship.  Kishan, you were terrific.

Bobby Matthew, the Delhi managing director was on top of everything all the time.  When things needed adjustments, he made sure that the adjustments would be smooth.  In every town we stopped, a local Pettitts representative would be there to greet us and ask how things were going so far.  It was a model execution of a trip.

On the last day, Guy, our five year old boy got sick.  Bobby and Kishan did everything they could do get a doctor, medications, they were like angels.  For more information: http://www.pettitts.co.uk/  or email: pettits@del2.vsnl.net.in

Bottom line: Hanna Lahat, Bobby Matthew, Kishan, Wikram, Vinod, and many others along the way made our trip an experience of a lifetime.  The few glitches along the way were nothing compared to the what we're leaving here with.

My uncle Eli said many years ago that a person is his memories.  It was a little mysterious and cryptic when he said it to me, but over the years it has become clear to me, that indeed, the memories you collect over your lifetime, define you.  Because they each affect your personality, your attitude, your decision making process, the way you treat people, the way you connect to others, they way you see things, they way you bring up your children.

Like genes, memories have continuity.  My memories will be told to my children and grand children (I can't wait), and possibly forward.  They are precious, they are unique, they are mine.

India is now in my memories, and therefore in my personality.  Thanks for a great addition to my memory collection!

Posted at 11:14PM Feb 15, 2008 by Amiram Hayardeny in Personal  |  Comments[5]