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Thursday March 27, 2008

2005 Clos des Andes Malbec
Most regions have their signature varietal. It doesn't have to be the most planted or best, but there's one that stands out. For New Zealand it's Sauvignon Blanc. For California it's Zinfandel. And for Argentina it's Malbec. In most of the world Malbec is relegated to the status of a blending grape, but in Argentina it takes centre stage. Plus it's pretty good value too - there are plenty of wines available for under $15, and many of them are getting high scores from wine critics.

I spotted the 2005 Clos des Andes in Costco at the weekend for $12 - the shelf-talker said it got 90 points from Wine Spectator. I had the 2004 last year - my note on CellarTracker says Bags of fruit, held its own against a curry and only got better with air. Definitely a caseworthy red. Great QPR so I grabbed one.

Did you ever cook something and think there was something missing? Then you realise that you forgot to add salt, and suddenly it all comes together? Well this wine is like that. It's tight and tannic, and on the palate there's something missing, it's hollow, like it needs salt or something. Perhaps it would have been better with a meal rather than on its own. Maybe it just needs time; there was a glass left over so I put it in the fridge and will try it again tonight.

But even if it does improve, to be honest I think you'd be better off paying an extra $3 and getting the Catena Zapata Malbec instead. I had one of those recently and it's lovely. Big mouthful of blackberries, soft tannins, not much acidity. Great value, but not one for the cellar.

I'd also be on the lookout for the 2005 Terrazas de Los Andes Reserva. (Make sure it's the Reserva, there's also a regular one that Safeway carries for about $7, which is nowhere near as good.) I've yet to try the 2005 but Costco had the 2003 Lots of blackberry and dark cherry. Good finish. Bet this would cellar well, but it's unlikely to get the chance. and 2004 Big and fruity. Tannins are soft at first but become pronounced after a while in the glass. Has the stuffing to age, but it's so good now I see very little point and they are highly recommended.

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Tags: argentina malbec