A few weeks ago, a colleague and I were chatting about some of the strange things that can happen when you're travelling (whether for work or not). He suggested I should blog about some of them, so I've decided to start an 'Alarms and Excursions' series which I will try and publish on Fridays. Can't promise I'll have something every week, but let's see how it goes. I'll put them in the "Life..." category (for ease of filtering...).
Sent To Siberia
It's true - I got sent to Siberia once for a week, by a previous employer. This was in the mid-nineties, and while Russia had opened up to an amazing degree, it was still (and probably continues to be) a place where strangeness is commonplace and the weirdness is world-class.
Just to clear one thing up at the outset: I was there in September, not winter, and the weather was, as a result, almost entirely comparable to the England I had just left behind. Several of my colleagues had the full-on Siberian winter experience, and the shared suffering of it bonds them together to this day. One of them got temporarily bonded together himself: his eyes started watering on the walk to the office, and the cold was so intense that his eyelids froze shut. They had to take him by the elbows and steer him into a heated building. I, on the other hand, had it easy.
I have to say, this was the only business trip I've ever been on where I got back and said: "If they ever ask me to go there again, remind me to say 'no'. Don't let me try and justify it - the answer needs to be 'no'". I hasten to add, this was nothing to do with the people we were working with, who were kind, fascinating and hospitable. It was just an accumulation of stress factors - the consequences of which we'll come to in a moment.
Part of the problem was a distinct lack of sleep. I was there to teach a week-long course, so the tendency was to turn in fairly early rather than going wild in the evening. The opportunities to go wild of an evening in Irkutsk were not plentiful - but they existed, and unfortunately most of them were located in our hotel. There was the disco, for instance, which would keep the local high-rollers noisily occupied until it was time for the next stop: the casino.
By the time the casino chucked them out in the small hours, most had had a fair bit to drink, some would have started fights, there was occasional shootings, though not while I was there. All this, though was just a prelude to the next phase of the night's entertainment: 4x4 racing in the hotel car park.
For this, you need: several like-minded buddies and an appreciative clutch of lightly-clad female admirers; a couple of cars parked so as to light up the car park with their headlights; another one with the doors open and the stereo cranked up to maximum, for sound-track; then you're all set for a couple of hours of fun... usually between about midnight and 2am.
I was surprised at how ill-fitting the single-glazed windows were, for a Siberian hotel room; certainly not much good at muting the stereo, the screech of tyres or the revving of engines.
Once the drag-racing dies down, there's an opportunity for a couple of hours of sleep - but then the trans-Siberian Express arrives at the railway station across the river, and as it's now so quiet, all the noise of the shunting, station tannoy, freight-handling and so on bounces across the river beautifully and in through the leaky single-glazed windows. So no sleep for another hour or so, by which time the cheerful grey light of dawn is starting to pour in through the thin 70s-orange curtains.
On the last day of the course, the participants had been hoping to knock off early and take a 'booze cruise' down to Lake Baikal, but due to the intransigence of one of their colleagues earlier in the week, progress had been so slow that there was no time for this. A lucky escape from vodka-overdose, we thought, heading back to the hotel. But there was no escape. The drinking just took place in the hotel bar instead. It all went manageably well until, shortly before midnight, the project manager phoned his partner in the UK and got the happy news that she was pregnant. Well, that was it. A fresh set of vodka-bottle tops was removed, crushed and discarded with flair, and we started all over again.
Such sleep as the alcohol allowed that night was fitted, as usual, into the period between the 4x4 racing and the station tannoy, at which point we were off to the airport for the 7am flight to Moscow. It was not a good flight. The combined effects of a week of sleep-deprivation, generally odd food, the previous night's over-indulgence and general stress-rebound were overwhelming.
Actually, I lie: the flight itself was merely uncomfortable. The taxi-ride from Sheremetyevo to the hotel in Moscow was what finished me off. About 5 minutes from the hotel I started to get tunnel vision. My fingers were tingling, and by the time the taxi pulled up I couldn't feel my extremities. "Clive", I said, "I'm afraid you're going to have to pay for the taxi... I can't see."
I sat on the kerb while he did that, and gradually my vision returned. I was still quite groggy, though, so once we got into the beautiful lobby of the hotel (all marble and suede), I put my coat on one of the sofas, lay on the floor and but my feet on my coat, to get them higher than my head. My colleague deployed his Amex card to get us some orange juice, and ministered to me with Dioralyte. Clive, you're a tsar.
The lobby was regularly patrolled by several pairs of security guards who looked like they had just been de-mobbed from the Spetsnaz. My strange behaviour didn't elicit the slightest reaction from them.
You have to try harder than that to get a flicker out of a Muscovite's weird-shit-o-meter.
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