Saurabh Mishra's Weblog

I thought I should share my mountaineering experience with rest of the world. Happy Reading! --------------- Saurabh Mishra It was Rupkund Trek (Trishul Massif in Garwhal Himalays) in Sept/Oct 2002 which brought the idea of Mountaineering to my mind. One of the leader in Rupkund trek had done this course from NIM. Three of us (Neelkath, Kiran and I) agreed to do this course in 2003. And that's how this plan was floated. Unfortunately, Neelkath and Kiran couldn't join me. Well, these 28-days in the mountains have been the best days of my life. I simply love mountains and especially the Indian Himalays. Those snow covered peaks, beautiful Valleys, stream flowing between the mountains, Bugyal (green meadows), pine trees, simple mountain people, bus journey to the mountains, chill weather, glaciers attract me every year. Since 2001, I have been going to Himalays twice a year except 2003 when I went to see Swiss Apls. Mountains will remain part of my life. NOTE : I hope you will find this text interesting and I also hope that you would learn something from this text,especially from the lecture on Mountain Manners. Please try to share your knowlegde with others. Feedback/comments can be given at :- Happy Reading! 28-days in Himalays ********************************** Time Table 180th Basic Mountaineering Course at NIM Uttarkashi UA INDIA In the NIM campus it used to be : 5.00 am Tea 7.30 am Breakfast 10.30 am Tea 1.00 pm Lunch 8.00 pm Dinner 9.45 pm Lights off.. In mountains (Tent) it used to be : 6.00 am Tea 7.30 am Breakfast 2.00 pm Lunch 6.30 pm Dinner 8.45 pm Lights off.. Training Schedule (18th Oct - 14th Nov 2003) --------------------------------------------- 18-19 Oct NIM 20-24 Oct Tekhla Training area (Rock Craft) (Height: 5,000 feet;Time : 2 hrs trek) 25 Oct Artifical Wall Climbing and Knot Practice. 26 Oct Tel Camp(Height: 8,200; Time: 4 hrs Trek) 27 Oct Trek to Gujjar Hut (Height: 11,790 , Time: 8 hrs) 28 Oct Load Ferry to Base came (Height: 12,600; Time: 2 hrs Trek) 29-03 Nov Ice Crafting 04 Nov Load ferry to Advance Base Camp 05 Nov Advance Base camp(Height: 13,600; Time: 3 hours) 06 Nov Snow Craft 07 Nov Height Gain 08 Nov Closing of Camp, and return to base camp 09 Nov Navigation Exersice, Written Test, Feedback, and Quize 10 Nov Trek to Tel camp, Reherassal of Graduation Ceremony. 11 Nov Trek to Bhuki Road Head 12-14 Nov NIM 15 Nov Dispersal Mountaineering Equipments used during the course :- --------------------------------------------------- Leg Gaitors Mittens : Hand gloves Seat Harness (else use sling to make harness) Pitons (Rock and Ice) : A rock piton is a metal pin that is hammered into a crack in the rock, and is described by its thickness, design, and length. Ice Axe : Tool used in climbing/walking on snow/ice Crampons : Spikes which are below the snow boots. Helmet Rope (s) Snow Anchors - deadman, snow stakes (snow bars), deadboy Pulleys for rescue Ascender (Jumar) Descender (Figure of eight) Plastic Boots Rock climbing boots Screw Carabinars : Caranbiners are rings of solid aluminum with a spring-loaded gate that allows them to be opened. Normally, the spring holds the gate closed, but the gate can be opened to admit a rope. Simple Carabiner Rappelling Jacket Short sling : a very short rope Tape sling Choke nut : Used for anchoring on rock NIM runs following courses (in order) ------------------------------------- * Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC) * Advance Mountaineering Course (A grade in BMC required) * Method of Instruction (A grade in AMC required) * Search and Rescue (A grade in AMC required) * Adventure Course See http://www.nimindia.com for more details. Technical Terms used --------------------- Belaying : It is the system that enables climbers to effectively hold a fall by means of a friction device and rope handling skills. A belayer's job is to hold the rope to stop a falling climber, which is difficult without the aid of a belay device -- an object capable of stopping the rope or passing it through smoothly. There are many such belay devices, and are all easy to use, making them very safe. One common belay device is the figure-eight Anchoring : It is the system that enables climbers to anchor themself by means of rope and carabiners to an artifical/natural anchor (tree, pitons, rock, etc.) Rappelling : It is the system that enables climbers to effectively come down from a rock. Anupam (Leader) from Ministry of Defence (Air Force). Belongs to WB, but presently in Bangalore Saurabh (member) from DL Srikanth (member) from AP Rahul (member) from MH Lakshman (member) from IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation) Belongs to UA Devang (member) from GJ Ropes used in Mountaineering :- Climbing rope, Rappelling rope, Fixed Rope (They are identified by diameter) Kernamantel Rope (outer cover), Huiserlat Rope (no outer) Pollypop Rope and Cotton cord. Climbing rope lenght could be 40m, diameter 9-11mm, breaking strenght 1800-2000kgs, alastisity 20-25% and weight 4 kgs. Rappelling Rope: 60/70m lenght, 7-8mm diameter, alastisty 20-30%, weight 3kgs, breaking strength 2000-2400kgs Fixed rope is same as climbing rope. Sling (a very short rope) should be 7-8mm and lenght could be 4m. Different types of coiling :- Climbing coiling: Make it double. Start coiling it. Start folding it once coiling is over. Take the end through the loop which should be inside. Take the other end and lock it. Casulity Coiling: Coil it. Make '8' (figure of eight) and then tighten it. The end should go into the loop. Rappelling Coil: Make it double. Put a thumb knot at the centre point. Coiling : Take the rope's end. Use right hand to grab the end. Stretech it passing through your chest using left and right hand Hand coil : Take the rope around the vest of the person and start coiling it. Shoulder Coiling : (I didn't write in the class) There was lecture on Camp Hygiene by Medical Officer at 12.00 noon and then a lecture at 2.25 pm. Knots :- * Thumb Knot (also known as Safety Knot) * Direct Knot : Guideman, Middle Man and FIrst man Boiline (Universal Knot) * Indirect Knot : Figure of Eight, Boiline of the bite Hitch :- * Timber Hitch (for testing the rope) * Clove Hitch (for anchoring) * Itilian Hitch (for rapling) Tent :- * Dome type * Tunnel type * Ridge type Hand Holds used in Rock Climbing :- Pinch Hold, Pencil Hold, Pressure hold, Jam hold, Undercut hold, combination hold, Side hold, overhand hold Foot Holds :- Jam foot hold, opposition hold, friction hold, half foot hold. Chimney : Crawling, Wrigling, (Horizontal) backing up down (Hands/leg touching) : Bridgeing up and down 'Mountain Manners' by Major Rana (VP) covering: * Greetings * Assume Responsibilities for yourself and your team's actions. Don't be selfish. Accept your responsibilties & team. * Maintain a low profile and be very calm. Don't make noise. * Respect others in the area. * Walking manners: Maintain steady pace. * Maintain Mechanical Rhythm. Avoid Jerky movements. Avoid overheating of body. Remove excess clothing (layers) after 15 minutes. * Always wear clothes in layers. * Ascend Zig-Zag * Walk don't Run * Intake of water must be maintained * Halt at scheduled halts. Don't drop out on your own. * Don't walk over growing crops * Maintain Body Temperature during halts. * During halts clear off the tracks/trails. Place Rucksack carefully. Never rest with rucksack on your back. * Judging distances * Country Courtesy * Passing information to others * Don't throw stones * Don't overtake a party (overtake at halts) * Don't have noisy behaviour * Hut manners (Tent) [place Ice-axe outside the tent,keep the tent clean, place rucksacks near the pole in sequence, clear the snow from inside]. * Rescue Work * Proof of Ascent (to Indian Mountaineering Foundation, New Delhi). Mountains are HARDSHIP. * Pollution: Campsite, Disposal of Human waste, [LEAVE NO TRACE] * On the march, carry key bag to clear off the trail. * Conserve the Nature. * Conservation of Flora * Conservation of Wild Life The climbing calls are like this :- I am there -> Take the slag -> That's me -> Check the belay Okay -> I am climbing -> Climb ON! Rock Terminology now :- Face : Outersurface of the object facing towards you. Fisure : A big crack in the rock Range : Continous running of a mountain Auguille : Any mountain which has a pickqulier shape. Cordee : Roping up of yourself Glacis : Rock face which is on an inclanation of 0 to 30 degree Slab : 30 < X < 74 degree Wall : 75 < X < 90 degree Overhang : 90 < X < 120 degree Ceilling : 120 < X < 180 degree Chimny : Gap between two rock face. Could be parallel in nature Choke Stone : Any stone stuck inside a chimny. Chap Stone : Stone stuck at the stop of chimny. Scrre : Galli in which you will find lot of debree. Ledge : Place on which any climber can find stance on a wall Caims : Artifical landmark to show a way Saddle : Gap bwteen the mountains Spur : Slope of a mountain range Constriction : Obsruction Greasy Rock : Slipery Rock because of mosck. Pinnacle : Any rock structure which is highest point in the shape of niddle. Trail : Any small little path in the mountain Higes : 90 degree contour lines Gendarme : In french it means 'policeman'. Anything looking like a human. Lecture on "Weather" by Col. A Abbey (Principal) Weather is key in Mountains. Weather is the physical state of atomsphere at a given time. Climate is average of weather at the surrounding places. Weather is influenced by Humidity, wind, temperature, pressure, and state of sky. Low pressure is dangerous. Complete weather phenomena takes place at "Troposphere" (8-18kms). Sun makes the weather. Sun rays come through atmosphere and 53% of Sun heat is lost in the atmosphere. Once the rays hit the earth, it warms up. The winds pushes the warmness in the atmosphere. Lapse Rate : For every 166 meter height gain, the temperature reduces by a degree. Cloud and Mist is condensation. Saturation Point : The condition in which the partial pressure of any fluid constituent (water in the atmospheric air) is equal to its maximum possible partial pressure under the existing environmental conditions, such that any increase in the amount of that constituent will initiate within it a change to a more condensed state. Evaporation ceases under such conditions. Due Point : The temperature to which a given parcel of air must be cooled at constant pressure and constant water-vapor content in order for saturation to occur. When this temperature is below 0 ?C, it is called the frost point. Relative Humdity: Amount of moisture present and expressed in percentage.One should look for Relative humidity before going into the mountains because it tells how much extra humidity the atmosphere can hold. Four Types of Clouds :- * Cyrus Clouds : High clouds. They don't bring rain/snow * Stratus : Spread Horzontially. Can bring spells of rain/snow. Their apperance is uniform. * Qumulous Clouds : Vertical in nature. They are also known as Thunder Clouds. They bring snow, rain, lighting and thunder. * Nimbus Clouds : Low clouds, at times kissing the earth and comes towards mountains. Rain/snow is certain and hence also known as Rain clouds. Stratus clouds are found upto 2000 meters. Stratus cloulds can combine with with Nimbus coulds or Qumulous clouds. Cyrus clouds can combine with stratus. Cyroqumuolus cloulds are thick in nature. We will find low clouds only below 2 kms. Qumulous Nimbus clouds are electrically charged and are very dangerous. Mist (When fog is less intense it is Mist). Due (ice on stones) and Frost (ice on plants). The weight of the condensed particles |||| ---> water --------------------------------- cold place --------------------------------- |||| ---> snow fall. | | | ------> conventional currents Once the conventional currrents can not hold the vapours then "Hail stones" takes place. From the layers of Hail stones, one can find the number of times it has been recycled in the atmosphere. Wind : Horizontal movement of air. Air current is up side down. Types of winds : Perodic, Local and Permanent winds. Winds always move from high pressure area to low pressure area. Cold air is heavier than warm air. After this lecture we have another one on "Medicine" by Medical Officer. As usual I didn't take notes. We had dinner and slept by 9.00 pm Types of ICE-AXE : Auawood, Hikaji, Fiber Blades, Steel Sizes : Long (60-75cm), Medium (55 cm), and small (40 cm) We got normal ice-axe (steel) Parts of ice-axe : Head, ice-axe, pick, teeth, shawl, edge, eye whole, revet, shavet, hand loop, returning ring, stud, rubber cover, ferrole and spike. Crampons are either adjustable (what we got) or non-ajustable. Year 1824-30 8 point crampons were used 1910 2 point, but people used it till 1952 Now people use 10-16 point crampons. Parts of crampons : Long strap, adjusting plate and screw, bucket, point/pick, and front point. Ways to walk/climb on ICE :- Pick Position Head/Edge Position Support Position Glacid Position Intersection Method :- Take degree of three peaks using compass. Get the back bearing using this formula :- if X > 180, do X -180 if X < 180, do X + 180 to get back bearing. Forward bearings are what you got from compass. Use Service protector to draw these degrees on maps. The point wherethree lines intersect is your own point/place on the ground. Avalanche. Avalanches occur between 30-45 degree of slope. Avalanches do occur at otherdegrees, but 30-45 degrees is most common. It doesn't mean that it wouldn't occur on 20 degree slope, but the chances are less and they are not so dangerous. Snow can't stick to the surface beyond 60 degree of slope. Types of Avalanche : Ice Avalanche, Loose Snow avalanche, and Slab avalanche. Ice Avalanche : It is the down slope movement of ice on a steep ice clif. Powder Snow Avalanche : It will occur during heavy snow fall. It is very dangerous. People die in seconds because they can't breath. To breath in an avalanche you must cover your nose and mouth. The "lee side" of the mountain is the place where sun shine and wind are less. So loose powder avalanche will not occur on the lee side of the mountain. Wet Snow Avalanche : Lots of water contents in the snow. It has lots of "mass", but less "momemtum". Increase in temperature or due to heavy rainfall on snow patches can produce wet snow avalanche. How to check : Make a ball and see if the size of the ball decreases or not. Soft Slab Avalanche: It occurs when there is a huge snow storm and it will face the "lee" side of the mountain. Hard Slab avalanche: It is opposite of soft slab. Snow becames hard, but not hard enough to become ice. Hard slab avalanche will occur when there is rapid consolidation of layers of snow. Survival in Avalanche : * Wear warm clothes * Carry Avalanche chord. * Run 45 degree diagonally * Face the avalanche and start swiming * Make a kangaroo position * Carry avalanche transceiver * Cover mouth and nose Glacier is a solid block of ice which is in continous process of movement. The movement is so slow that we can't see the movement. The pressure on the head of the glacier and the slope make the glacier move. Glacier movement varies. Types :- Contiental or ice cap glaciers (North Pole), Alaskan glaciers, and Valley glaciers. Features of a Glacier :- * Rocky Debris (Morren) Morren: Latteral (on sides), Medium (on the glacier) and Terminal (at the snout of the glacier). * Cravesses : Transverse, Diagonal, and Longitudinal * Neve : Feeding point of the glacier. Head of the glacier would be like a field. Parts of a Glacier: Head, Complete glacier itself (accumulation point), snout (where the glacier finishes also called "run out point"). Types of Rescue : * Double Pulley or Z system rescue * Single Pulley System or C system * Running Rescue * Hard knot (using three carabiners) We first learnt C system. In this system, the personis not unconscious. So he can climb himself, but we will have to anchor the rope so that he can climb. The most funny and tiresome was the Z system because the person is unconscious. So you have to lift him. Ascending on snow :- * Toe clicking (lien forward like in skiing) * Side straping (when slop is gradual. Make edge of legs) * Zig-Zac position (when sloop is steep and short). * Stepping Descending on snow: * Heal clicking * Zig-Zac position Position of ice-axe (pick) has to be towards the slope. The equipments usedfor anchoring and belaying used on snow are : Deadman, Deadboy and Snow bar. Body belaying on snow :- * Bucket Belaying * Hip axe belaying (using ice-axe) * Boot axe belaying (using ice-axe) * C Band (normal slope) * S Band (tougher slopes) Self Arrest is arresting yourself in case of a fall and Team arrest is arresting done by the whole team for a member who fell. Falls are classified in three ways: * Standing Position * Half skirt * Siting Position Falling: * Head down, legs up, face towards the sky. * Head down, legs up, face towards the slope. * Rolling. Class on History of Indian Mountaineering :- As late as 19th Centuary. Britishers started mountaineering in India. In 1861, Pandit Nan Singh was asked to survey Garwhal himalayas. George Everest, Surveyor General of India developed a technique to measure altitiude. And that's how Mt. Everest was named. Nanda Devi was discovered in 1905. In 1907, Trishal massif was discovered. During 1921-24 people started to think about climbing Everest. Subsequently, in 1931, Kamet was climbed by a French team and that's when Frank Smith discovered Valley of Flowers. In 1940 Doon school in Dehradhun came into existence. In 1946 Doon school made their first attempt to climb Bandar Poonch massif. However, the attempt failed. In 1948, High altitude warfare school was formed in JK. Bandar Poonch was successfuly climbed in 1950. In 1951, Trishul main was climbed. HMI was established in 1954. In 1961, Indian Mountaineering Foundation, New Delhiwas established. In this year itself and with the help of IMF, HMI Manaliclimbed Neelkanth. In 1962, Indians climbed Mt. Everest (Major Kohalli). NIM was established in 1965. Nanda Devi was traversed by Indian Army and American army in 1976. In 1977, K3 was climbed by Col. N Kumar. In 1981, French and Indian army climbed Nanda Devi again. In 1984, Indian Army climbed Everest again, but they lost 9 people. In 1988, a Bombay boy (Harish, I have a book on his expeditions) climbed Ramo Peak in Zanskar Valley (Leh). Mr Hokum Singh climbed K3 in 1991, and it was then people closed K3 for any climb. ITBP lost 3 people in 1996 Everestclimb. And in 2001 and 2003 Indian Army successfully climbed Everest. NIM instructor - Sub. Mohinder Singh (from Kannaur HP) was in Mt. Everest expedition with Indian Army. Good days don't last forever. Nothing comes without hardwork. Be a good person in life and always help others. Give love and take love. -Saurabh -- Saurabh Mishra Student of 180th Basic Mountaineering Course (18th Oct - 14th Nov 2003) Nehru Institute of Mountainnering Uttarkashi (Uttaranchal) (2004-10-19 23:53:23.0) Permalink Comments [1]

Comments:

Sounds like an amazing experience, thanks for sharing it with us. It certainly brightened up a dull grey morning in Dublin!

Posted by Duncan Foster on October 20, 2004 at 03:25 AM PDT #